Suspension damage total loss reddit. Potential totals get brought straight to a .

Suspension damage total loss reddit When it comes to Motorcycles parts and labor are much more than the standard car. This has obviously caused some suspension damage, and the wheel's toed out due to bent control arms. It’s prob be like close to 20 but without what state your in and knowing what their total loss threshold is it’s hard. I worked on our desk CAT team and it was very common for the supplement to be significant or total out the vehicle because the initial estimate couldn’t capture the total hail damage. That supplement was also approved by my insurance company. I wouldnt necessarily get my hopes up but there's gotta be worlds where suspension is still sturdy enough to drive it back. That is all that it means. And if that's the reason, be like "well I was thinking about how ridiculous it is that my car would be branded salvage for very minor damage like this, so I went online looking for the CT state guidelines and saw that if a car is older than 20 years, it doesn't have to be branded salvage after being deemed a total loss. Brakes and struts. Suspension work falls under mechanical labor rates. 2013 Lexus RX350, in great shape, 75k miles: Torrential rain for 3 months, here, tons of potholes everywhere. May as well just go the insurance route and have it towed to avoid possibly breaking more stuff or causing an accident on the way to the shop. If after it’s inspected at the staging yard it is NOT a total loss, they would move it to a repair shop. With the car market at an all time high I decided to take the lower cash offer from the insurance company and keep the car rather than a larger cash offer and they take the car. This a Copart auction car - which means it’s a insurance total loss. I bought the car from copart and I know everything that was done to make the car road worthy. Check VIN for damage history if possible. This is what im estimating will be quoted at proper Lexus dealership. The bill was $35,000. If that was me I would 100% buy it back and fix it myself. Potential totals get brought straight to a Also the picture of car seems 90s what insurance may try is to push for a full loss meaning they'll total it fight it if you can if they try. Total joke to total it. Engine damage increases fuel consumption after a certain threshold, don't know if the increase is the same throughout the damage levels though. 1. Auto damage estimator here. Run and drive can still mean possible suspension damage or frame issues. This is 100% the correct answer. Yea i'm like 90% sure its gonna be a total loss, body damage, frame damage, suspension damage, engine component damage from what i can tell. Carfax says it was a structural damage and a total loss. Frame damage is a very tricky thing to fix plus it’s a structural part of the car meaning there are no corners to cut. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Unfortunately I hit an unseen pothole the other day and in the last two days or so a creaking sound is coming from the front end of my RX350 (not steering column) when I turn the steering wheel either left or right. When I got rear ended, I had similar suspension damage, had to replace the rear bumper and part of the rear quarter panel and a wheel and tire, and the total came to roughly 15k Oct 25, 2023 · My insurance company put the pictures I sent them through an AI software, then a guy sitting at his desk looked at the car virtually and decided that there was "Probable Structural Damage" "Probable Frame Damage" "Probable Steering Damage" and "Probable Suspension Damage". A Subreddit for the people who love Dodge Challengers! Yea I got into an argument with them on the phone because I told them i needed to figure out what sort of damage was done to the vehicle and he said it’s fine just put wheels on it and drive away. The body shops original estimate was around $27K for repairs and that was approved by my insurance, however, the body shop ended up finding suspension damage after few weeks later and sent a supplement for those repairs, now at about $48K total. In my area my rates are: Body: $50 / hr Paint: $50 / hr Mechanical: $149 / hr. i’d do a overhaul for the frt suspension(new knuckle, control arm, strut, etc) , new wheel, tire . Would be interesting to see what the body shop/insurance say thought. In the game you can roll multiple times and the car will most likely still be If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. I have called the insurance a handful of times and left voicemails. Most states have a 70% actual cash on totals but some are 100% If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. It ended up being about $8000 in repairs, covered by the person who hit me’s insurance. Not a rental car total loss or a dealership total loss. (It’s also one of the adjusters metrics. 90% suspension damage. You'd buy the car back and just keep driving it as-is. Definitely will have suspension damage and a-pillar damage. if you go independent, it could very well be $1k-3k lower depending on the shop, do they go refurbished parts, etc Things i can't tell just from this pic and may need work I’ve had hail all over a car before that wasn’t major but insurance paid out $1,200 to fix it. All my truck needed was a bumper cover n tow bar/hitch miraculously I received no frame damage just bent hitch. Being as it’s a ten+ year old hyundai sedan with an original MSRP of around 20k, it’s being deemed a total loss. You can ownee retain it. These motherfuckers really said “not necessarily” 🙄🙄🙄 It is annoying for the damage it causes but next time stop and look at the rock or rocks hit and compare it to your tire size, if you want more realistic damage a rock like that at top gear or even just 35 would probably total a wheel and suspension in real life. State Farm is a huge company and the total loss process is very well documented. Its probably gonna surpass the 26k$ mark. i got hit head on with my mom at 30+ by a landcruiser and had $26k worth of damage on a $30k-ish car fixed, but they will total a seemingly minor accident like this. I’d be skeptical of a minor damage total loss claim. If the cost to repair is above a certain percentage of the value of the vehicle they determine it a loss. It was not declared a total loss (2011 SHO in 2015 so value was north of $20,000). You can measure the car and see how bad it is, measure diagonal from the front left side to rear right side and vise versa. We use the term OTL (obvious total loss). will they still cover your rental for the rest of your out of town trip? Many times, they will only cover the rental for a few days after the car is declared a total loss. It’s a total loss. The total loss department hasn’t reached out to me yet, but I’m assuming it’s because the revised damage inspection only happened on Friday. That's why that versa is unfortunately a total loss. Now they are claiming it's repairable and that the damage to the battery is superficial. Do you think this is bad enough to affect driveability/safety? Based on the surface level paint damage, and the fact the car barely moved when it happened, she must have just come off the clutch, and wouldn't have been moving fast at all. The damage was to the driver side rear bumper but because it was pushed into and onto a sidewalk there is also rim damage and the undercarriage is scraped. The front end is not even that bad, looks like the crash bar did a good job. this ASSUMES cosmetic damage and no frame damage or suspension damage! estimate: $7,050. Creaking sound on right side of vehicle, worse with bumps and worse when turning right but also present when turning left. Looks like it needs a fender, blend the door and roof, possible fender apron damage but the collision does not appear to be lined up with a frame rail at all, looks like it hit the bumper and sheared the fender and wheel back. Please put down the tools that right now and walk away. I suffered some pretty solid hail damage during the big hail storm last year. The doors won't close right and there could be water and air leaks if it isn't repaired properly. With an older car worth, say, $500, it's really easy to exceed the value when considering body damage. I think your real question is asking them if you drop off the car now, and they declare the car a total loss next Monday. If the salvage value is lower than the price for autobody work, the vehicle will be a total loss. The car is currently inoperable due to suspension damage. I am being told that I cannot do anything with the vehicle until the claim is settled. Repairable write-offs/Economic Write-offs exist and are very much registerable once repaired. Don't know why OP down voted this reply. Frame damage is expensive to fix in a unibody car so my hunch is that the cost to repair will be near 70% of the vehicles value and that the vehicle will be declared a total loss. That is how something like cosmetic damage can total out a bike. Other states, like Illinois, allow insurers to calculate amounts follow a total loss formula to identify a vehicle's salvage value, then compare that to the cost of repairs. What makes that scenario work is the fact that there really isn't any damage, so you actually profit from the car accident. Maybe you spend $200 to bang out some dents or replace a rim. That’s asphalt tack. It may only need paint, it may Though it has been maintained, my vehicle has 220,000 miles on it and there is damage to the unibody (bent and noticeable to the trained eye in the gaps at the top and bottom of rear doors, and by squealing suspension and a brake light that turns on at speed). For reference motorcycles are always a loss of the frame gets hit. As per the subject, I've got a horrendous suspension noise in my 2005 Mazda 3 (SP23 version, so lowered from factory) with 295,000km on it. looks repairable. ) If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. 39K subscribers in the Challenger community. S. In the U. Question 2. Be sure to get them to add loss of use and diminished value onto their calculations of total cost to “make you whole” If car is worth $40,000 say and repairs are $25,000 they likely won’t total it. The ideal Total Loss buy-back scenario is if you have an older car that has purely superficial damage. The system will identify potential total loss or repairable based on what you describe to the rep and how the rep puts it in. A bunch of suspension damage can easily lead to an economic total loss, especially running it through insurance. Based on the picture I would say, new bumper, new lift gate, the rear lamps are probably broken, the exhaust probably got hit, and potentially some rear body stuff, plus the applicable sensors Damage Report Structural damage disclosed by seller based on results of a visual inspection Vehicle sold Structural damage may impact vehicle safety and reliability. The car needs at least a new bummer, paint, suspension, control arms, alignment, wheels, and labor that's already like 12K. I had an accident earlier in the year where a road rager pushed me off the road and I had severe suspension damage on the passanger side, and the damage was much MUCH worse and it only cost me $4800 my car is a 2020 corolla, so parts should essentially be the same thing. If the damage isn't severe, you don't have to repair it with the money you get from the insurance. They sent me the paperwork and everything for it. Was rear ended in my 02 Durango 6 yrs ago by a distracted driver. The estimate based on visual damage did not meet the actual cash value threshold for your state rules to declare the car total loss. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns. You probably need a few hours on the door, replace rocker mounding , replace fender, blend hood, ,alignment, the arm that snapped needs replace, other suspension damage that it’s a little difficult to see from the pictures, whatever is going on with the bumper, headlight? If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. You're looking at a new hood, new front bumper or bumper cover, front driver's side 1/4 panel, driver's side headlight assembly, wheel arch liner, new or reconditioned front driver's wheel as I see rim damage in picture 3 when you zoom in, anything engine-related: whether it be cooling, heating, electrical, mechanical, and all suspension parts such as tie rods In this case, the car is considered to be a total loss except for the value of scrap metal or potentially salvageable parts. Can’t just diy repair a brand new car that’s under warranty and insurance unless maybe you are certified insured tech etc but even then I believe there is conflict of interest that would prevent such a thing from being allowed. The funny thing is when the insurance company called to tell me it was a total loss, I specifically asked if it would make the car less safe in another accident. If the other shop did not do tear down, they do not know the full exent of the damage. Once you get the news from insurance you have to negociate as well they will offer you lower than 26k. So it depends how accurate the preliminary estimate is. I want to be able to put this back into our warehouse to keep it out of the weather while we go through the process. I worked on a road crew for 6 years and saw this at least 5 times/week. And that price is diy, not a shop. If you decide to just accept the total loss, pretty much the only thing you can do is make sure the information listed for your car (which is what they are looking for comparisons for) are right on the valuation report they should provide you. The cop at the scene said it would probably be a total loss. So I don’t need to spend any more time looking at little knit picky or hidden damage stuff. Anyway Copart, which does the salvage auctions, reached out to me and requested I release the vehicle already. Ex total loss offer 10k, since you are going to keep the car they pay you 8k instead. 700 dollar towing bill. My car was deemed a potential total based on damage and age - some body work and bad suspension damage underneath with deployed steering wheel air bag for an 11 year old car. (Paint, new door, pillar, fender, airbags, etc. Jan 17, 2023 · In Missouri, the Total Loss Threshold is 80%. If you're planning on keeping the car anyway, it doesn't matter. Reply reply 119 votes, 28 comments. Whereas in real rally it is sometimes possible to finish a race after rolling, this will often total the car. We havent gotten an estimate yet but it's just body work and a new tail light. But after the shop got their hands on it, damage is over a certain threshold, I think 5k. An appraiser can check the damage done to a wrecked vehicle to determine the totaled car value. take the loss, and buy the car from them for cheap, fix it with the leftover cash, or don't fix it, pocket the leftover cash, or accept the total loss and just turn it in, use the cash toward something else. When we called Pro(Re)gressive and told them about the accident they immediately said they were going total the car because it's older than 2015. I can have the car put back together in about a day to a drive able state. The folds at the bottom of the A-pillar would cause me concern. It just means that Insurance has said "yes we can repair this, but it's going to cost too much so we'd rather give the owner a payout and recoup some money by putting this through auctions as is. Even if you could replace the doors, fender, headlight and bumper with used parts, the firewall section has been bent and this is a deeply labor intensive part to try to repair and pray, or replace. The car was declared a total loss. YMMV, but I bought an Acura RDX in Denver in 2018 that was a hail-damage-total-loss (clean title, car fully re-painted and all dents pulled)- got comprehensive on it via my insurance company right away, got slammed into by another driver (T-Bone) this year (2023), and am currently in the process of getting a check for the pre-accident value of Seriously. With the price of used (and new) vehicles skyrocketing, insurance companies are pushing heavily to "repair" vehicles with fire damage, frame damage, firewall damage, etc; due to the high cost of replacing your vehicle often leaving you with something unsafe and also worthless to any potential buyer in the future. Yes most likely a loss. This a lot more than a door. Now they have 12,000 in damages and the suspension. insurance is such a mystery to me. If the price is right it to you then it might be worth getting. The way the wheel is sitting leads me to believe there is frame damage. The rates are Funny Time Funny Money so while the labour rate at $26 is like 1/4 of the rate, the times and line items are padded to even out. I’d say total loss not just because the airbags have blown, as everyone is stating in the comments. Its CarFAX report is showing that it was a Total Loss by the prev owner's insurance company, but the selling dealer is showing me a clean title. The loss vehicle had a clean CarFax (prior to this incident) and 91k miles, which the CCC report states is 42% below average mileage for the year/make/model. I'm cruising along on a dirt road, run over a minor rock and boom 20 suspension damage. Bam totaled. They usually have to use special lighting to see all of the damage. They deemed it an "obvious total loss" without even going in and Nov 11, 2020 · You damage looks significant for the age and mileage of the vehicle. I am going to go against what most people say here. a car is disposable no matter how much you love it. Get the unibody or frame of the vehicle inspected by a professional. How is that possible? I thought Total Loss is an automatic cause to create a branded (salvage) title. Also with hail damage, the initial estimate is often only a fraction of the total damages. new fender, repair the front bumper, and blend the paint on the door and hood. 2M subscribers in the MechanicAdvice community. I'm seriously considering a no damage mod at this point. Seller states that the body/chassis wasn't welded or anything, just a new bumper, headlight, wheel arch, screws etc. For example - if your car is worth $7000 and would sell at auction for $1200, your repair threshold is $5800. bizarre. Insurance looks at this: Cost of repair OR total loss less what the car would salvage for. But if you figure the ACV is ~ $47k you're only at ~50% with $24k in damage. ) It's also from a panel beater, and as advised by u/au-smurf I was expecting some actual mechanical or suspension damage. Sometimes I would OTL based on I know airbags for your car are going to be about 5k and your car is only worth about 4k. This is more than a car repair forum! Generally you won't damage the subframe seriously with debris even if something was knocked off. 99% damage does nothing. Even though a part of the road was clearly barrelled off and usually 3 inches lower that the rest of the road due to milling, some dumbass always seemed to find the fresh tack. It’ll be expensive but I think it’ll be fine. Copart usually only identifies damage listed by the insurance company, which isn't always all of the damage a vehicle has sustained. the standard to total a car is usually the repair cost exceeding 75% of the car’s value. And the door and quarter panel are damaged. There might be some suspension damage but from the photo it doesn't look like it. Unless there is suspension damage AND the airbags deploy with frame damage it’s rare for 2022 lux vehicles to be totaled. "They sent a supervisor to the shop who spoke to the manager and they back tracked on the total loss. but the most important thing is that YOU are safe. I am looking at buying a used vehicle (MY 2019 Porsche with only 3,400 miles on it) in Michigan. What a lot of rubbish that front fender is a bolt on/off job and easily replaced. They are anticipating it being a total loss. Suspension damages add up to quite a bit and I’m sure there’s also frame damage. It’s much more cost and time effective for them to move an anticipated total loss to the correct site for inspection off the batt. It being new is what saved it from being a total loss. I'd ask them stuff like how much of the damage is cosmetic vs structural and whether the suspension/tire/rim is damaged enough that it's safe/reliable to drive back home. My wife’s vehicle was rear-ended and deemed a total loss, the at-fault drivers insurance is USAA, and the loss settlement is being handled by CCC. I was told by a claims receptionist that my car was deemed a total loss but NO ONE has reached out to me to discuss the next steps. I am going into the shop to check out the damage wensday. Mar 28, 2020 · That looks like a total loss, but I guess you can never be too sure. So the air bags did total the car but financially not just because. If you can live with the damage or know how to fix it yourself, you can opt for owner retain, but you will have to salvage the vehicle. It could so much as fall over into a rock and scratch the frame. A car is "totaled" when the cost to repair exceeds the cost of buying a comparable car. Clearly you attempted to drift and hit something. You can also look at the ride height on all four tires, but that depends as much on the suspension as the frame. i work in total loss for a major insurance company… as long as it’s no frame dmg, i probably wouldn’t total it based on this picture. What to do: Situation 1. When a car is declared a total loss it's because the cost to repair the damage exceeds the value of the car. . I started hearing a sharp metallic thump noise that you can feel through the car and feeling a really disconcerting wiggle from the rear of the car when going over bumps or even non level tar patches and replacing numerous parts has done little to nothing So the tale as old as time, sketchy run in with a pothole, didn't notice an issue until getting off the thruway an hour later. Normal total loss threshold is ~75% of ACV with most insurers in most states. (Meaning that extremely trivial damage can total a car if its old and shitty enough) In case of a bent frame, it means parts of it might need to replaced, or specialized personal needs to re-weld it. 11/11/2022 47,021 Route 33 Nissan Trenton, New JerseyTrenton, NJ Trenton, New Jersey609-586-1900 4. It will be an extension of the same claim. A shop would have to start the tear down process and report additional damage until it reached that threshold. So it looks like my car is going to be totaled due to flood damage. My car was deemed a total loss by insurance per mechanic shop guy. Yes, the airbag components are expensive, which doesn’t help save the vehicles, bags blow every day and get replaced in a lot of situations. Posted by u/shoefly2k - 9 votes and 24 comments When they told me the breakdown of why they consider it a loss they included storage and rental which I just don't see how that factors into the cost of the damage/repair. From my experience, suspension damage is an all or nothing type deal, and when you have 100% damage the truck slams on the ground with all its wheels. Anyways, the car drives just fine and I didn’t think the damage was THAT bad. If That IMO is totally totaled. ) Given that you have obvious suspension damage too, I’d wager it’s a total loss. " Hitting a fence or rock on the side of the road will frequently burst a tire but not cause the devastating wheel/suspension damage it might in real life. Maybe a bit less with a Tesla since the salvage values are so high. I can see a lot of damages in the picture. I own a rebuilt tittle 2015 exl Honda Accord. However, the body shop won't know how severe the damage is or if it cause other damage unless you do a tear down and estimate on the cost to do the repair. You’re in for thousands dollars to repair. Just looking at this photo, I can tell that there has to be damage to the RH lower A pillar (where the door hinges mount), there has to be suspension damage, the RH apron had structural damage, and the hood and RH door No suspension damage but it ended up being a $14,000 repair on a 2018 Subaru Forester XT, which is probably similarly appraised as your car is now. Subframe. but if the state is fronting the bill, I guess it doesn't matter. 4 / 5. We just released an M4 Comp repair from our shop. The thing has has had side damage, rear damage, front damage in like 3 different accidents. Additionally your vehicle did not just total out at $6800. 0 This most recent incident isn't that bad. The repair is likely going to be over $1k just from the wheel and bumper damage, let alone the suspension damage. But you can drive full speed into a mud pit, basically bringing your entire truck to a halt instantly and no damage. Sway bar. No suspension damage, tires are all fine. wwten mpeoxh zmtm otjn isdjcy oonf jmwwk vyx pdasn pxvum